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Arrived at Gatwick Airport at the crack of dawn on Friday 15 May, after an overnight direct charter flight from Halifax. I went straight to the flat of our friends C. and P. (the couple whose wedding we attended in Venezuela two years ago), as they kindly offered to put me up for that evening. Their building, The Circle, is located very close to Tower Bridge, on the south bank of the Thames, and is very cool - the neighbouring buildings are old riverside warehouses, now converted into flats.
Shortly after my arrival, C. and P. headed off to work, and I dispatched myself to London Bridge train station, about a ten-minute walk away. I had plans to spend the afternoon doing one of my favourite things - visiting a National Trust property. I jumped on a train and headed east, out of the city to the town of Bexleyheath, in Kent. From there, I walked to Red House, the former home of the Arts & Crafts designer William Morris.
I have always been a great fan of Morris, and was excited to visit this remarkable property, which he designed along with some of his Pre-Raphaelite brethren. I spent some time exploring the small but lovely garden (where I had a staring contest with a red fox in the underbrush) before being taken on a guided tour of the house by a rather doddery old man who was a font of information. I took lots of photos and came away feeling quite inspired by Morris's vision.
I got back into the city around 3pm, and since I had time to kill and an all-day Travelcard to use, I took the Tube up to King's Cross-St. Pancras, to have a look at St. Pancras Station. St. Pancras has always been one of my favourite buildings in London - it's a masterpiece of Victorian Gothic architecture. During the years I lived in England, it was in a very sad state, with no regular train services; I used to pass by regularly on the way to the British Library and always wished something could be done to revive it. Fortunately, over the past decade, it has risen from the ashes, and has been completely refitted as the new home of the Eurostar service to Europe. I was absolutely gobsmacked when I walked inside, and saw the wonderful iron girders of the station's enormous glass-roofed train shed, which stretched away endlessly into the distance (my photos don't do it justice!).
The scale of the place is awesome - and the restoration of the wonderful red-brick Victorian Gothic architecture is a joy to see. Beyond the train platforms, St. Pancras is also now home to smart shops, cafes and public art, including a statue of the poet John Betjeman, who led a campaign to prevent the station being demolished in the 1960s. His pose is the very one I found myself adopting as I caught my first glimpses of the station's interior:
At the end of the Eurostar platform, this colossal sculpture can be found. It's called "The Meeting Place" and I think it's wonderful - though apparently lots of snooty art types hate it. Go figure.
Friday evening, I went for dinner with C. and P. (and baby J!) to the Butler's Wharf Chop House, on the river, in a block of buildings recently renovated by Terence Conran. We had an excellent meal - actually, throughout the trip I was really happy to discover how much easier it has become to get good food at reasonable prices in London. It used to be a nearly-impossible task!
The following morning, I was up early and off, via Tube and train, to the town of Watford, northwest of London. Not on anyone's list of touristic must-sees, is Watford - but on arrival, I got a cab to that evening's accommodation, a wonderful country-house hotel outside town called The Grove, where I met up with J. who had just arrived that morning from Montreal. We spent some time exploring the public rooms (including a suite of lounges on the ground floor, located in the original reception rooms of the old house), before hitting the spa for a swim and a steam. We had the afternoon at our leisure in Watford itself, before an early dinner. We spent the evening at a small show nearby - which, in true British style, was held outdoors in very chilly weather, with hundreds of people standing around, listening to the band, drinking and steadfastly trying to make the best of things. ;-)
On Sunday we slept late, enjoyed a fine breakfast, and crashed in the lounge with the Sunday papers before being picked up by friend and driven into central London. We spent the afternoon at Dennis Severs' House, in Folgate Street in the East End. It was my second time being there and it was every bit as incredible as I remembered. I resolved to visit every time I am in London. It is quite simply one of the most magical places I have ever been - part historic house, part art installation, part time machine. It's a bit of a well-kept secret, and an utter privilege to visit.
By the time we finished with seeing the house, it was time to check into our accommodation. We booked a one-bedroom flat for the week, in a new building in Bermondsey (about a ten-minute walk south of C. and P.'s apartment near Tower Bridge). The neighbourhood is one I would not have considered ten years ago, but it's been heavily gentrified since, and Bermondsey Street is now home to trendy boutiques and plenty of good bars and restos, as well as the famous antiques market on Fridays. Our apartment was small, but quite comfortable, with everything we needed for the week, and was only a ten-minute walk from London Bridge underground station.
Had a fantastic dinner that night at a place across the road called Village East -a classic Sunday roast with all the trimmings, and some excellent red wine. By the time we got back to our flat, unpacked, and checked our mail, I discovered we'd finally been allocated some tickets for a live taping of The Graham Norton Show on Wednesday night! Very excited about this, as we'd figured they weren't going to come through - J. and I both love Graham Norton and I'd applied online for show tickets back in February. With this piece of unexpected good luck, we knew we were in store for a fabulous week!
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Next installment: a day trip to Brighton, and more literary landmarks than we could shake a stick at...
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